Ferry to Nagadeepa

The water from the tap is salty here and, even after a shower, I need lots of baby powder so as to not feel sticky. Today, we went by local bus and ferry to visit an outer island. First, we travelled over a causeway which was in rather poor condition.

A Buddhist temple, Nagadeepa, was the first stop on the Buddha's second visit to Sri Lanka. When we were there, my GPS showed us in the middle of water. (The internal map contains information primarily for North America, and the rest of the world is made of polygons.) It was a very interesting journey that ended as we returned to the hotel at 2:00 pm.



My battery charger is used for the GPS and my camera batteries. Unfortunately, I think I burnt it out with the 240 to 120 adapter. It did used to get quite hot! The electronics shop did not carry a 500Ma transformer here. It looks like I'll have to conserve battery power on the rest of this journey. We'll have been on the road for two weeks come tomorrow …

The Jaffna Peninsula

This was the last morning for breakfast from the sisters. We took a 3-wheel to the bus station and went to Vavuniya. We're getting quite far north now! It was 50 kilometres, 1.5 hours, but only about US 44 cents. We arrived at 9:00 am so we decided that we should try to go as far north as possible today. We decided to go to Jaffna. There were no busses but we found the place where vans leave from. Being cheap, we waited until the bus filled up and paid SR750 each. If we'd been in a real hurry, we could have paid more and gone immediately. The down side was we needed to wait until 11:00 and it was really hot.



I think we had to get off for three different checkpoints. Some were the LTT (Liberation Tamil Tigers) and other Sri Lankan forces. I could never tell who wanted to check the bags again. It was a tremendous hassle and for what? Almost twenty years of war . . . and for what? People dead, economic development stalled, human lives interrupted . . . and for what?

Jaffna is not a tourist haven yet. People are very friendly but it looks like Castro's Cuba. All the vehicles except those of the United Nations are pre-war vintage Morris Minors! I supposed just being able to travel here is special as it wasn't possible between the mid-80's and a few years ago. We did manage to get a very convenient room at the Yaara City Villas. We are just one street away from the town center but it's quiet and green here.

The Gift of the Tree

Up and away quickly. It was breakfast from this sisters again. The 3-wheel driver who showed us the ancient city yesterday, took us to the old bus station. We took the 8:00 bus to Tantirimalai. It's a temple and the location where Ashoka's daughter stayed when bringing the sacred Bo Tree to Anuradhapura. This is significant as it's part of the tree under which the Buddha attained enlightenment. This area of dark rock had a Hindu temple at the time. It is directly on the route between Mannar and the destination city.



The road we travelled .. well .. wasn't much of one. It was not wide enough for two vehicles. I've got a lot of respect for those old Tata busses as they can operate under such adverse road conditions. We got back to town (50K) a bit after 12 noon. We ate rice at a traditional place with extra fish and bottled water for SR 200 which means $US 1.00 each. Nap time, today!

Monumental Day

We retired early last night, so we got up early. This room is on the second floor with a large open staircase. The windows look out on an empty lot in the rear. Many wild parrots fly among the banana trees.



Rather than eating at the Guest House, we sneaked to the same place we bought dinner snacks. We got breakfast rolls, yogurt, and juice from the sisters who worked there. After finishing, we walked outside. Right across the road, a 3-wheer driver offered to take us to see the Anuradhapura ruins for SR 700. He was a very honest man and ended up showing us places that many tourists generally do not see. The day was grey, but we didn't use the umbrellas. After 3.5 hours, we gave him SR 1000 and he left us by the bus station. He's a retired military guy who supplements his pension by owning and driving a tuk-tuk.



Our plan was to get a bus to Mihintale, but yesterday's driver that bought us to the Guest House, saw us downtown. He offered to take us out, wait, and return us for SR 650. It was almost exactly 15 kilometers one way. Up another mountain! This is there place where Buddhism was introduced to Sri Lanka. We did open our umbrellas but the rain was warm and felt nice. On the road back, however, it really started to pour. Rain is a blessing in a dry area. Today, we were doubly blessed.

Returning to the Triangle

Residing at the French Garden were a batch of small puppies. When the Australian family came, the little kids adopted them and lugged them around. When we sat to eat they'd snuggle against my bare feet under the table. So, it was with sadness, we said, "bye bye" to the beach puppies this morning.



We went to the bus station early but got on the second bus which left at 10:00. With us were lots of people, a live chicken, and eight boxes of fish on ice. Just because there's a line on map doesn't mean that it's really a road. Three hours after the fun started, we got off here in Anuradhapura. The drizzle stopped but resumed after we'd checked into the Milano Guest House. We ate a big lunch downstairs and took a walk to test the umbrellas and buy bakery snacks for dinner.

Trinco Travels

Last night the window was open to the ocean breezes and I slept soundly. I like beach-front property, I guess. Breakfast here was quick (by their standards) and we took the 3-wheel that was waiting. He brought is to:

Swami Rock and Thirukoneswarm Kovil

Kanniyai Hot Wells

For an interesting overview of these places, visit Trincomalee in Legend and History. They were interesting. We were gone over two hours and about 25 kilometers.

Upon returning, we walked up our beach to a river. It blocked our further progress, so we turned around. It's very hard to distinguish distance when walking on a long beach, but the GPS comes in handy at these times. All meals end up being at the hotel as it's convenient and reasonably priced. I took another nap. Quite the life, eh?

Life's a Beach

After a jam and toast breakfast, we forked over the $40 for room and food. By 8:45 we were in a government bus on the way to Trincomalee. It was a fast ride on good road (but the seats were not quite big enough for my ample butt). We disembarked at 10:15 and had a 3-wheel driver take us to a close place to stay. We had thought of staying near town but the Chinese Guest House near the bus station was really disgusting.

Four kilometers north of town we found the French Garden Rest House. It's $US 8.00 per night and directly on the beach! I had two beers for lunch and needed a long nap. Tomorrow we'll go downtown and maybe out to a point of land where there's a famous Hindu Temple.

Unexpected Routing

When we got up this morning, we had iddlie and dosa right outside of the Room #1 at the Lake View Inn. After, we paid $US 10 for the room, and yesterday's lunch and tea. We took our bags and walked to the buses across the lagoon. It wasn't until we asked around that we discovered that no long distance buses leave from there. Instead, we had to take a bus up to a junction near the police station.

It was only at this time that we discovered we'd have to change our tentative plans. Although the road looks fine on the map, no buses run up the coast to Tricomalee. We learned that we would have to backtrack through Polonnawara and Harbarana Junction. Finally a suitable bus arrived for us to jump on. Express defined the bus in name only. I don't think I've ever been in such an enclosed space with so many people. The bus was going to Colombo, but we paid only to Harbarana Junction. There was a government Rest House there, where we ate lunch. We decided that it was worth $US 22 to spend the night there. We will be able to take a Trinco bus from here in the morning. There's not much of a town at Harbarana Junction. However, I did manage to buy a set of nail clippers that work well.

To the East for a Day

This was our last breakfast near the canal. We checked out of the hotel although my MasterCard didn't work. I think the receptionist did something wrong when trying to verify it. We then talked to the local bus station (up and around the corner) and grabbed a local bus to Kaduwalla's larger bus stand. We have decided to stray from the triangle and go to the eastern town of Batticaloa. This area was strictly off the visitor's path during the war years.

It was a long-distance bus, so we ended up sitting around for 45 mintues before it started to move. On the trip, I used my GPS, so I know we traveled 90 kilometers. Yet lest you think it was an hour's journey; I have to inform that it was more than two and a half. The road, you see, hasn't been maintained since the ethnic troubles started in the early 80's.



Upon arrival, a 3-wheel took us to the Lake View Inn. It was a short walk across a bridge which we'll walk for tomorrow's bus. We walked around town and saw that the Dutch Fort although unknown by name to the locals . . . is where many government offices still function. A second walk confirmed that this is definitely a stray puppy city. I shaved off my hair and I sort of miss my tail. As my sandals lost a strap, I thew them away for a pair of new Battas.

Time!

We were up at 7:00 and ate breakfast in the room. We also had a pot of tea at the restaurant near the road. After asking, we found a 3-wheel driver for the day. First, we went directly out to Medrigiriya. It was 32 K and consisted primarily of a ruins and a circular section of pillars which used to have a roof. It was interesting to see but more so, when you consider they were placed in those positions 1200 or 1300 years ago. What workmanship!



What will any of us do that will remain intact and remembered so many years from now?

We went back at noon and had a leisurely lunch at the hotel. At 3:00 pm we did the official ancient Polonnaruwa tour. The site covered acres and acres and I was amazed by a big dagaba as well as the famous carved image of the reclining Buddha. Rain teased us at 5:15 when we finished.

Caught Up in the Triangle

We ate breakfast at 7:30 am and directly walked to the Rock Temple again. After paying this time, the hike up the hill paid off at the entrance to the caves. It was far too special a place not to have religious significance.



After we walked back to the hotel and too a 3-wheel to catch a bus to Polonnarawa. It was only an hour and a half; however, the bus was full and we had to stand more than half the trip.

We waited for a long time for lunch at our new place, the Gagaba Hotel. Yet finally there is a TV in the lounge! We napped. We're right next to the outlet for a huge irrigation-project lake. The area is still in a serious drought and the water level is very low.

Avoiding a 3-wheel, we took local busses to see New Town (a flop) and Kaduwalla city. We bought breakfast rolls from a bakery and ate dinner at a place close to the canal. The owners are a talkative couple and the lady even brought out pictures of her nursing-school daughter.

Reaching New Heights

Jay slept under mosquito net; but I didn't want any claustrophobia-inducing covering over my head! We got up and had a nice breakfast in the hotel. We wanted to travel so the hotel called for a tuk-tuk.

A boy in a 3-wheel arrived promptly and we were on the road to Sigiriya by 7:50 am. It was 19 kilometres away. Phew, what a climb! It's a serious hike and not for those who are afraid of heights. It took around 1.5 hours to climb, view, and descend. What an amazing place to put a king's palace! On the way up, it's possible to view the famous Sigiriya Girls in the frescos.



Then, as my cultural triangle ticket book had ones --- we went to Ritigala. It's an ancient Buddhist monastery located partway up the highest mountain in the district. The road there was much further than expected. The way was partly bad tar and, the rest, washboard dirt! We gave RS 300 for a guide who walked with us up a fantastic ancient sidewalk. The stones were so precise that it puts to shame most modern construction. Coming back we ate and the 18-year old 3-wheel driver was surprised that we offered him a free, late lunch too. We made it back to the hotel a total of 105 K later and at around 3:45 pm.



This has been a very memorable day!

North to Dambulla

We got up before expected. The lady who was running the place had said we could have breakfast around 8:00 am. As she wasn't there, we walked back to down and ate at the Devon. We had a traditional, string hopper breakfast for the equivalent of $US 1. Then we walked back to the temple to purchase my Cultural Triangle ticket for SR 3315. It will allow me to visit the cultural sites and historical capitals of Sri Lanka without paying admission at each one. We walked to find a 3-wheel driver. He took us up to the enormous Buddha on the mountaintop. He waited for us, took us back to our guesthouse so we could get our bags, and then took us to the intercity bus station area. We left Kandy at 10:00 and got to Dambulla (WGS84: N07`52.453 E080`39.063) at a bit before noon.



A 3-wheel driver brought us to the SunRay Inn on the main road. After lunch and beer in their restaurant, we walked up the road and were surprised that we were near the Cave or Rock Temple of Dambulla (WGS84: N07`51.387 E080`38.915). We hiked up the hill without buying a ticket! It was difficult to see that one was needed. I did take some good pictures though. We can go up later. After napping, we bought dinner from a bakery again. It's getting dark and there are some bats flying by. This might be the first time we need to break open the mosquito spray . . .

Kandy: The Start of a Journey

We did manage to get rolling at 8:00. We retraced some of the route to our previous trip to the Pinnewala Elephant Orphanage. We stopped at a temple before heading into Kandy. We parked right at the Temple of the Tooth (WGS84: N07`17.580 E080`38.468). I had to rent a sarong as I only had on shorts and it's impolite to enter with legs showing. This particular temple is highly revered. The tooth relic of Buddha is there. This is also a tourist city for both locals and foreigners. We walked to a downtown restaurant for lunch.



Jay and I will not be returning with the others. We will begin a trip from here and although we have maps we do not know exactly where we'll head next. It's wonderful to be able to travel this way, letting circumstances dictate the path of our journey.

The whole gang helped to get us a room. We drove to the other side of the lake looking for a guest house or hotel for our first night. One from our list was very far up the hillside, and unfortunately, full. When driving back down, a 3-wheel driver was very happy to show us one. We had a choice and went for an ordinary but nice basic room for SR 700.

The family left to return home.

Our arrangement was like a bed and breakfast. We walked downtown to a bakery and brought short eats for dinner in the evening. There was no TV, so we went to bed rather early.

Back and Forth

We returned to Minuwangoda this morning. Bobbie, Lal's youngest sister came too. We travelled again by van and happened, by chance, to see another of Lal's sisters and friend and dropped them off in Borella. There were 17 children in his family! Lal is lavish and bought string hoppers for dinner; I think he ordered 400!

The GPS worked well as a means of measurement on the highway. It was exactly 42K from house to house. The fast speed we managed on the major highway was about 50 KPH. I had copied over some old analog tapes of previous visits to Sri Lanka on my new digital camcorder. It was fun for everyone to watch how different we looked in 1991. Jay's dad likes to tip one back and was waiting for Lal and I to arrive!

We were again promptly in bed at 10:00 so we'll be able to get an early start on our departure to Kandy tomorrow morning.

Visit to a Temple

Today, the major event was visiting a monk. This particular monk had helped the family a lot during the sickness of Jay's mother. Actually, the one year memorial of her death will occur next month. Buddhist monks here live by donations. As is customary we brought a new towel, toothbrush, toothpaste, milk powder, and a pen. The "audience" lasted a half hour and were were served tea and food. The van had been late in picking us up (10:50 am rather than the scheduled 10:30 am). So were weren't very hungry. Yet, there was a pet rooster which seems to thoroughly enjoy the cheese sandwich we threw.

In the evening, after an afternoon nap, we checked email at a close Internet Cafe. There are advantages of living in the city!

Those Amazing Animals

Considering the end of the last entry, I was NOT totally out of sorts today.



At 9:30 a van came and took us to the zoo. Colombo has an excellent zoo considered on the best in Asia. I took lots of pictures including those of the capybara --- the wild, pony-sized, South American hamster. I mentioned those one on my blog, I think. They also have an elephant show and although the beast have to do some embarrassing tricks, I suppose they're happier than some other beast of burden. It's an amazing zoo really. The tropical setting seems like a perfect environment. The penguins did have to have air conditioning though. We waited to watch a sea lion show too. We got home at 6:00 pm on the dot.

Is It Shop or Drink til You Drop?

It's a bit hotter there as there's no jungle like there is near Jay's house. There was a big shower last night, although I think it make things more humid than cool. Today was shopping day. The sisters, Jay and I travelled to Fashion House, Majestic City Mall, Fashion Bug, and French Corner. Now being fashionable seems to be very important. I got two pairs of shorts and a short-sleeved shirt. Oh, and I got a bottle of Black Knight cologne, a travel-sized bottle of shampoo, and baby powder to cut down on the sheen of my face in this weather.



Lal ordered from Pizza Hut and there was one seafood pizza just for me. I'm treated so royally! After, he and I drank an entire bottle of Arak and by all indications, three of those double-sized beers.

Kites on Galle Face

This morning Jay's younger sister, Jay and I travelled to Nugegoda (WGS84: N06`52.411 E079`53.464). That's where his elder sister and brother-in-law live. We left the house at 9:30. At the Minuwangoda bus station we boarded an a/c Colombo bus. It was cool and comfortable. After a long ride, we disembarked at a junction and caught a local bus. We bought two folding umbrellas, and then we took a three-wheeler directly to their house (WGS84: N06`52.374 E079`54.103). We arrived at 12:05 pm but the journey was really only 38K.



We had a big meal which was preceded by a some VSOA for Lal and me. VSOA is Very Special Old Arak and it's distilled alcohol made from coconut toddy.

At 3:15 pm, a van came to take us (and one of Lal's sister and neice) to the Galle Face Road. That is Colombo's waterfront area. It was host to an annual Kite Festival. Hundreds of kites and thousands of people were there. It was beautiful weather and most everybody even managed to wade into the surf. We came back after 7:00 pm, ate hoppers and chipathi, and went to bed before 10:00 pm.

Welcomed Routine

These first days have proven to be a wonderful chance to adjust to the new environment. Before we head off on treks around the country, we've tasted a bit of everyday life. This was a typical day where the simple routine is what's comforting and relaxing. The events:

Got up at 6:30 am.

Brushed teeth.

Drank milk tea at 6:45 am.

Swept up leaves which had fallen overnight.

Washed and shaved at the well.

Ate breakfast at 8:00 am.

Hand-washed some clothes.

Sat, read, looked at maps.

Drank 2 beers with Jay's dad before lunch.

Had lunch at 1:30 pm.

Took a nap from 2:00 pm to 3:00 pm.

Had afternoon tea and a frozen popsicle.

Waited with cat, dog and others to see the door-to-door fish salesman.

Sat and wrote this at 4:40.

Out of Gas

Today, Jay's sister and brother-in-law left to go back to their home near Colombo. Luckily, it's easy to call a 3-wheel that drives right from the house to the downtown bus stand.

It was a relaxing day with nothing too eventful. Oh, wait a minute! The bottled gas ran out. The meant that Jay's dad also took a trip downtown. All cooking used to be accomplished by fire at the kitchen hearth but LP has made life much easier. The bottles are bigger than the North American barbeque-type. I guess one generally lasts three or four months.

I took a nap that stretched from 1:30 to 3:30 today. Later, I looked at some family photo albums. We were going to visit Jay's brother's wife, Dharmeeka; however, she and the kids were busy.

Big Deals

We were up early today and on the road to Pinnawala Elephant Sanctuary. We travelled out to the Colombo-Kandy road which has some great scenery as one starts into the mountains. We got there a bit after 10:00. As soon as we arrived, we walked right to the river and saw them bathing. After, they were herded across the road. There was a feeding time for baby elephants. It was a great day for an outing and we stopped at a nice restaurant on our return trip. Mastercards can be used everywhere. Our rented van, driver, and the 7 of us arrived back in Minuwangoda at 6:00.

Half Century

Hey, it's nice you could be at home for the occasion, we wish you a ...



Happy
Birthday,
Jay!
As we are planning a trip tomorrow our ranks grew larger this afternoon. Jay's brother-in-law came so we could leave directly from Minuwangoda tomorrow. Although it was Jay's special day, it was me who helped Lal polish off the bottle of Johnny Walker from the duty free in Singapore!

Negombo

Today's big event was going to Negombo (WGS84: N07`12.517 E079`50.150). As Jay's elder sister came from Nugegoda yesterday evening, the four of us went. We arranged for a van and driver. During the time we:

used an Internet cafe to check email

ate lunch at a Rest House

drove a bit to see the Negombo beach hotels

bought an oven, a pressure cooker, shower curtains, mats, groceries, and finally fish directly from the beach traders.

Although the city is only 13 KM from the house, it surely seemed like a long trip. It's a good road but busses, motorbikes, tractors, and pedestrians slow the travel. Driving here is such a headache!

Pet Peeves

There are two pets hanging around here.



First, there's a lanky dog. In order to help describe Brown, I'll have to mention the Simpson's pet. Can you picture it? This dog too has spindly legs and each seem to function independently. It is a bit of a wimp as proven by its total fear of me for the first few days of contact. Oh, sure it can bark during the night at an imagined intruder but I doubt the thin body would really be much of a threat. Brown has begun to warm up to me emotionally, yet physically the dog can never seem to get warm enough. It waits in the morning until the sun bakes the concrete floor so that it can sit and soak up heat. Today was bath day and after it was over Brown sat shivering next to the doorway.

Secondly, there's the crabby cat. Jimmy is a hunter and spends most of the night out on travels. This creature is only affectionate at meal time. I think it's a bit of a sadomasochist as it seems to enjoy being swatted. If one gets in its way though, they're likely to bear the evidence of the encounter in the form of some scratches.

Pants, Ants, and Dance

At 10:00 we walked down to the junction and took a bus to Minuwangoda again. This time we went because it was the Sunday Market. Although primarily market produce, plasticware and clothes vie for a buyer's attention too. Jay's sister bought vegetables from many different vendor stalls. Folks might be used to tourists elsewhere but they weren't really expecting a white guy in the market. Of course it could've been my video camera that made me the center of attention.

We got back for lunch and as I'm sitting here with dessert at the back door, I am watching armies of ants walking the clothesline. It's a regular expressway with those from the opposite direction sliding over and taking their route upside down.

I'll be going to bed soon but I noticed a Sunday musical program on TV. There is a genre of popular dance music in Sri Lanka that can be traced to Portuguese rule. Costumed dancers practice today although the origins are from the 1500 and 1600's.

The Need for Elephants

I woke up at a normal time so perhaps I'm on the right schedule now. Auntie made a batch of string hoppers for breakfast. They are puffy, little rice-flour cakes which are eaten with curry or onions. Making them involves quite an elaborate procedure as the dough is pressed through a hand-held device with hundreds of little holes. The dough forms tiny strands. Several resulting layers are placed on 4 or 5 inch pads and then the whole batch is steamed. Sring hoppers can be eaten for any meal or as a snack but they require lots of effort to create.

Another event this morning was the burning of 30 odd, mouldy videotapes. Back in Middle East days of the 1980's Jay had brought home many movies on tape. Unfortunately, his area is very humid. We took a look and all the tapes had developed lots of mould. There was really nothing to do except get rid of them. Of course, the future holds VCD and DVD as the medium of choice, so it seemed suitable to set the collection alight. It was the end of an era.

In the afternoon, we pulled a huge teak log up onto a wooden structure for cutting into lumber. Hired guys carefully turn the log into boards with an enormous 2-man saw. It is cheaper to hire someone to work for days than to buy the finished product. Here I noted one cultural difference: It was a lot of work and I thought, "Gosh, we need a tractor." On the other hand, Jay encountering the same situation, said, "I think this job requires an elephant."

Settling In

After a full night's sleep, I feel more in tune with the reality of being here. They do say that, as a general rule, it takes one day to adjust for each time zone. I hope that is not really the case as it means I won't be fully acclimated for nearly two weeks!

As it's morning, I am sitting with a mug of milk tea. There's a door by the kitchen that looks to the side of the lot with all the vegetation and trees. I hear 'Tamil' birds, miner birds and a neighbour's rooster. The miner birds are by far the most melodic.



Evening has come. We went to Minuwangoda today for shopping. Downtown is about a kilometer and a half away. Three of us (Jay, younger sister, and I) travelled in a 3-wheel tuk-tuk which hare made in India by Bajaj. We phoned so one stopped at driveway gate and took us to do errands. We picked up groceries as well as some alcohol and beer. A 625 ml bottle of Lion Pilsner costs the equivalent of just 50 cents. Imagine that!

Terra Firma

We touched down in Sri Lanka at five minutes after midnight. Yet after doing bank work and more than a peek in duty-free, we didn't leave in an airport taxi until 1:30 am. Jay's house is so close that we got there in just a half hour. (One pays for the ticket for an airport taxi from a booth inside the airport. The taxi driver would have probably hoped for a cross-island trip where he could have earned more substantial cash.)

In the early hours of the morning the roads were empty, the air was humid and heavy, and the foliage clearly tropical. I love the feeling of really venturing to some place different and wham; here it was! It might have been nice to fly in during daylight as it's amazingly green and beautiful from the sky.

At the house (WGS84: N07`10.757 E079`56.212), we greeted the family and went right to bed. After getting up at 9:00 am I was pretty 'out of it' because of the 12 hour time difference. My watch was easily changed but not my body's clock. I napped from 1:30 to 5:00 and now will head to bed at about 9:00 pm. I guess, this will have to be considered a transition day.

Singapore Sling(shot)

Although we left YVR (Vancouver) at the scheduled time last Monday, the distance and dateline means that this is the first entry. We had no Tuesday. Last night (local time) we arrived in Singapore. The airline efficiently and effectively shuttled us to a free room for the night. At around 9:00 am we were up and walked around Arab Street first as The Golden Landmark is right there. We also walked over to Little India and had a lunch in a Sri Lankan restaurant. We had to get to shuttle back to the airport at approximately 7:00 pm to get on our flight. This was a very nice way of ensuring we'll not arrive in Colombo totally exhausted. The flight will get in after midnight but at least it's only 3.5 hours from here!