Aswan to Luxor - Day 107

I didn't check the weather app to see if it was raining this morning in Vancouver. The last time I saw rain was when I was there during the second week of November. After our 8 o'clock breakfast I went up one floor on the sundeck just to snap two pictures. This would be how I remember Aswan.



We checked out at 8:15 and leisurely walked to the train station. We hoped to get on the 10:00 train. The agent at the window said that they could not confirm seats as they were fully booked. We asked about standing room only and was told to go ahead. We had to wait until one local train departed and ours pulled into the station. As Aswan is the terminus, the engine would go around to the other end of the cars and pull it back towards Cairo, or maybe even Alexandria.

We got on board on of the last second-class cars and as time grew near hardly a soul came to our car. I guess their reservation system will only book a seat number if it can assure the whole passage. I'm sure that all the seats may have been accounted before its final destination, but we had our choice of seats up to Luxor.




The conductor came through and we gladly paid the extra LE 5 for getting our tickets onboard. The total cost for both of us came to LE 74 (US$ 9.45). It took us just three and a half hours to speed back along the track which often was quite near the east bank of the Nile.

We got out at 1:35 PM and decided to eat at a favourite resturant that's right across from the station entrance. Everything was now familiar territory as we walked to the National Ferry and to our sweet dwelling on the West Bank.

What a very pleasant few days, we've had!

Philae Island - Day 106

When we were in Aswan in 2014, we did not make it to Philae. We knew that today would be the perfect opportunity. So, as soon as we'd finished breakfast, we hit the street.

First, we needed to find a taxi driver to take us to the general area about 15 kilometers from downtown. After promising one driver who'd promised us a LE 50 round-trip, we returned to find out he, of course, meant one way! So, we turned him down, ignoring his attempts at further bargaining. We walked back towards the train station and negotiated with another. We agreed to pay LE 60 and he'd wait to pick us up after.

The second step in the process is buying the actual tickets from the Egyptian government. There was no way to try to come to another price except the mandated LE 60 each.

Then, after strolling down to the pier, we needed to find a boat to get us to Philae. There were hundreds boats of varying sizes. Many larger ones had already been booked for tour groups and were filling up. We found a smaller boat and had nobody with which to share. Therefore we agreed on the LE 100 for the round trip. He'd wait during our time on the island.





It was truly a wonderful day to visit. We marveled that this whole complex was moved to this island. The first dam often left the temple under water after it's completion in 1903. When the cold war meant Russia was to fill the Aswan High Dam, Philae had to be saved.

It does seem that the money and engineering involved in saving this and Abu Simbel during the late 1960's was a phenomenal feat. There was a sense of confidence around the time humanity put men on the moon. Many diverse global projects, which would never get funding nowadays, were accomplished. For details about the actual temple, see the link in the first line of this entry.







We promised our boat guy that we'd only look around for about 45 minutes. We probably stayed about an hour but it would have been easy to stretch that out. After we got back to land, we called our taxi driver to come and bring us back to the boat.




We were back in time for the 1:00 PM lunch. It was the hottest time of the day, so it was great to dip in the boat's little swimming pool. The temperature today was probably close to 36C, but of course, as they say, it was a dry heat. A bit later, we walked along the market road in Aswan. We remembered this city well from our time here in 2014. In many ways, it looked more prosperous this time. For example, there were fine, new, river-view apartments being built along the corniche.





We watched the sun set over the Nile thinking that this may be the final time we ever see Aswan. It really is a lovely location. Tonight's dinner was up to par but the dessert table had a cake with a message which made me a little sad. (However, it tasted just fine.)





Tomorrow, we will head back to Luxor on a train, hopefully the one which leaves at 10:00 AM.

Edfu to Aswan - Day 105

I am not sure what time we arrived last night but we awoke in Edfu.

I continue to be impressed with the food on this cruise. The staff is friendly and the variety of food is great. As soon as we'd consumed breakfast we went out to look around. Some passengers had arranged for a tour of the temple in this town. However, we are not newcomers to Egypt. We instead wanted to get a better look at the city itself as we'd never been.

The city was smokey early in the morning as often farmers burn the debris from agricultural crops. We always find walking around a new place exciting. This city probably isn't a place where tourists would want to spend a lot of time, but it is nice to say we saw a few of its streets.

We needed to buy extra water. That is one area where it's best to buy from outside. We know that water should sell for about LE 3.5 (US$ 0.45) for a 1.5 liter bottle. Yet on the ship it sells for LE 17.25 (US$ 2.20). We retired early on little pensions; therefore, saving even a few dollars means we can continue our lifestyle of exploration!







By 10:00 AM, we were continuing our way south. We knew that this would be the major day of Nile viewing. This is an amazing river! It is humbling to consider the history of Egypt both ancient and modern. I'll never glimpse its banks at a time prior to the Aswan High Dam, yet around each corner lies a fascinating kaleidoscope of colour. Seeing glimpses of life on the banks forms the amazing part of a cruise like this.








Our incredible lunch was served on the sun deck. I am going to weigh an extra 15 lbs before I get off the M/S Nile Dophin. The food staff seem to outdo themselves each time we eat. The ship stopped at Kom Ombo Temple right on the river bank. I like the stately structure built only a few hundred years before the time of Christ.

Back on the water, the afternoon turned quickly to evening with some time in the pool and a constant eye on each bank of the river.







Just when I thought I could eat no more, it was time for dinner. The staff got us downstairs with a little Arab music first. Tonight the outside temperature seems balmy. We finished the day up on the top deck, pretty much where most of it was spent. As we saw the new bridge at around 8:00 PM we knew we'd soon be docked in Aswan.




Tomorrow our boat will stay put. We, however, will probably go out and try to find a way to get to Philae.

Luxor to Edfu - Day 104

We did get on the M/S Nile Dolphin today.

At first, I wondered. We promptly arrived over on the East Bank at our travel agent at 11:00 am as requested. Our guy walked us back to the ship which was parked in front of the Winter Palace. We sat for a few minutes as a quiet argument at the reception ensured. He came to us saying that we paid at the offical exchange rate but the cruise company wanted to recalculate. Of course that meant we had to pay a little more. Aware that our dates were flexible, we said, "No." We offered to go back to the agency and get a refund. So we walked the short distance and waited in the office for the details to get straightened out by phone between the agency and the cruise ship company. They did. After five minutes, we were able to go back to the boat and officially check in.

It was a rather fun way to start the trip by providing something to remember. I have always maintained that when a journey goes exactly as planned, there's nothing special to recall!

We had our first exposure to the food and I was impressed. Lunch was served as soon as we had unpacked and walked around the boat and up to the sun deck. The boat had to re-position a few times before we departed.






We actually got underway at around 2:00 PM. It was fun to watch our familiar Luxor city fade into the distance. The views were then filled with the amazing Egyptian landscapes. Tea time was between 3:30 to 4:30.








After the sun set, we approached the Esna Locks. At one point in time, before the construction of the Aswan dams, this area had rapids. In order to make the Nile navigable, locks had to be built. Many cruise ships were waiting to get up to the higher level. More sellers, who were previously running beside the ships trying to sell goods, were waiting for us. They would throw items up for inspection and the potential buyer had to haggle. If the deal was successful money was thrown down; if not, then the item was returned that way.

At around 7:30 we also had dinner although I'd eaten much too much for lunch. We spent even more time on the sundeck although the sun had set hours before. We are lucky that the weather had turned very warm. During the day it was about 35C but at night it was a very comfortable 18C.





We are still moving! Our boat is supposed to dock at Edfu during the night and that is where we will wake up tomorrow morning.