Day 005: An hour and a half on an express train is all that separates the coastal docks of Southampton from the center of London. We woke at 8:00 this morning, which left plenty of time before catching the 9:30 express service north. While rail fares in Britain carry a noticeable price tag, the sheer speed and convenience make the journey an ideal way to spend an impromptu day out. Fast trains shrink vast distances. For anyone accustomed to long hours behind a steering wheel, stepping aboard a warm carriage and watching the countryside dissolve into dense city suburbs within ninety minutes feels effortless. Our train pulled smoothly beneath the vaulted iron canopy of London Waterloo Station right on time.
Stepping out along the River Thames invariably summons vivid memories of journeys undertaken decades ago. The very first time I stood along the riverbank looking across at the British Parliament was in 1981. I had just finished college and was en route to Kuwait for my first international teaching contract. A classmate and fellow newly minted teacher, Catherine Harold, joined me alongside several other school staff to explore the landmarks during a brief stopover. Those early travels felt momentous. It was not until 2005, when Jay and I went on a European vacation, that I returned to these riverfront walkways for sightseeing. Gazing across the water today brought that long timeline into crisp, meaningful focus.
Our morning walking circuit traced a scenic loop bridging some of the most celebrated vistas in the capital. We crossed Westminster Bridge with a brisk breeze reminding everyone that November has firmly arrived. The river wind was biting. We made our way up toward Trafalgar Square to view the monuments, the gallery facades, and the grand stone architecture before circling back to the south bank via the Golden Jubilee footbridges. Suspended high above the water alongside the rail lines, these twin pedestrian walkways offer unobstructed panoramic views of the entire riverside without any traffic noise. Braving the blustery weather rewarded us with an invigorating tour through the city core.
Seeking shelter from the chilly gusts, we ducked beneath Waterloo Station into the vibrant underground world of Leake Street. Known widely as the Graffiti Tunnel, this 300-metre vehicular tunnel running underneath the railway tracks serves as a rare, legally sanctioned sanctuary for street artists. The famous street artist Banksy hosted an underground art festival here in 2008, transforming a dark brick passage into London's most prominent public canvas. Spray paint drifted through the air. Intricate murals, vibrant tags, and clever stencils overlap continuously as artists repaint the brickwork daily, ensuring the scene looks completely different from one week to the next. Walking beneath those illuminated brick vaults felt like exploring a living underground art exhibit.
Emerging from the tunnel brought us directly into Lower Marsh, where honest midday cooking anchors the neighborhood. Situated right behind the station viaducts, this historic street hosts an authentic weekday market surrounded by small, independent shopfronts. We stopped into an unassuming Thai eatery serving steaming, freshly prepared dishes to warm up after our cold walk. Hot noodles hit the spot. While London dining expenses can seem steep when converted to Canadian dollars, this modest venue offered genuine, comforting value without tourist markups. Finishing a flavorful lunch restored our energy before we headed back toward the railway platforms.
Our timing inside Waterloo Station could not have worked out more smoothly for the return leg. After stepping through the busy concourse, we noticed that waiting just a short while allowed us to catch the 3:05 pm direct express straight back down to Southampton. We quickly bought one-way tickets via a machine. The carriage filled with a fascinating cross-section of students, shoppers, and daily commuters settling in for the afternoon journey. People-watching in a train carriage is just as entertaining as viewing famous monuments. That steady ride carried us comfortably back to the coast by early evening, rounding out an exceptional return to the capital.
